Cycling the Shimanami Kaido Route across the Seto Inland Sea in Japan

The Shimanami Kaido cycling route offers a great example of how infrastructure can serve everyone. Cars, lorries and bikes thrive in a harmonious and efficient system. The route comprises 75 km of roads, 6 islands, 6 bridges and a ferry. The beauty of it lies in the dedicated cycle paths and purpose built roads that separate cyclists from motorists. This allows you to stop and take photos, gawp at the view or drink the vast quantities of liquids required, if you choose to do it during the summer months. 

The route crosses the Seto Inland Sea, that lies between the main islands of Honshu and Shikoku. Spectacular views present themselves with almost every turn of the head. Shimmering water, verdant islands, neat beaches and the magnificent feats of engineering that make it possible to cover the area by bike. 

A Refreshingly Different Cycling Culture

Cycling in Japan offers an entirely different experience to many places in the world. In the UK, commuters and leisure riders alike are vehicles for the booming global market in cycling, apparel and accessories. The adversarial nature of the relationship between cyclists, pedestrians and drivers is profound. This has rendered it seemingly necessary for anyone getting on a bike to ensure that they have enough lights to navigate a primordial forest with their eyes closed. Add to that, a selection of moisture wicking, muscle compression, high vis garments, a state of the art helmet; and you should just about survive your 15 minute peddle to work.

Route Planning

My research revealed that a lot of people tackle the ride in one day. As I had got into cycling in the two years prior to leaving Scotland, I was confident that the distance and the absence of any gruelling hill climbs would make that achievable.

However, rather than gritting my teeth and trying to conquer the Kaido before nightfall, my plan was to get roughly half way and pitch my tent near a beach that I had identified on the map. Doing the trip over two days would allow me time to explore the islands and consult the maps when I got lost. The latter was assumed because of its regular occurrence as a solo traveller. Before I started travelling solo I used to rely heavily on the keen sense of direction of others. I would wander around in blissful ignorance of my surroundings or their proximity to our origin or destination.

Over the years, I have learned to live with my disability with the help of GPS, recklessness, salty snacks and some common sense. As a result, I have managed to survive some potentially dangerous – but mainly just inconvenient and humiliating – situations. 

My Bike for the Trip

I stood at the bike hire location assessing the options in front of me. I’d chosen the cheapest rental service, so I shouldn’t have been surprised or disappointed at my potential rides. My criteria: working brakes, fully inflated tires and a rack over to strap my tent and sleeping mat to. And, some twine to achieve the aforementioned strapping. Half an hour, I was on my way…