Looking for wildlife and having lunch in a village near Indawgyi Lake

The hills to the west of the lake are off limits to foreigners. This is ostensibly due to ongoing conflict in the region involving the Kachin Independence Army and various illegal gold mining operations. However, there are still plenty of places to explore and I decided to enlist the services of a guide. Cho worked for a local community organisation called Lovers of Indawgyi (LOI) and had a particular interest in ornithology. He was a slight, young man with a face mask tucked under his chin and a stern expression. He was also a mine worker, so his love for creatures well above ground level seemed completely reasonable.

Walking and Wildlife

We set off on his scooter for the start of the trail, stopping at a military checkpoint on the way. Here he had to answer questions from a man that looked about his age, rattling around in a baggy uniform. With an ageing automatic weapon dangled heavily from one shoulder, he reminded me of a reluctant child doing his paper round before school.

As we walked through the woods it quickly became clear that my guide, Cho, was in his element. Clutching ‘Birds of Myanmar’ in his right hand, his left was ready to draw his binocs at the slightest movement in the trees or call on the breeze. Much as surfers have to be able to spot a good wave, seeing wildlife relies on keen eyesight and patience. At this point, you might reasonably expect me to reel off the names of the numerous birds that we encountered. Alas, I can’t remember them and at the time I was happy enough to enjoy their company in blissful ignorance. All I could do was nod in recognition, while Cho exuberantly listed them with help from his book.

After encounters with gibbons, giant squirrels and beautiful birds with Latin names, we approached a village and our lunch stop. The houses were wooden, but a bit more ramshackle than the teak structures in Katha. The living area was raised about 6 feet off the ground with woven straw topped boards and rugs on the floor. My arrival raised significant interest among some villagers and complete indifference in others. The owner of the house had laid on a good spread of noodle dishes, various cooked vegetables and soup.

Monkey Games

As I ate, I watched three boys outside in the courtyard playing what I can only describe as, ‘hit the spinning top with stones’. They wound a piece of cord around a large, hand-carved wooden spinning top then released it with a whip of the arm to set it whirling around on the dusty ground. The three participants would then take turns to throw stones at the top. I wasn’t sure if the objective was to hit it, stop it spinning or knock it out of a particular area. At any rate, it was enthralling and I hoped that they would invite me to play. They didn’t, but one of the boys caused me and the others watching some amusement.

It turned out that his nickname was ‘Monkey’ on account of his playing style. Before throwing the stone, he would dance on his toes, wide gait, elbows pointing out as he waited for the opportune moment to release his missile at the target. He reminded me of a character from the 1960s Planet of the Apes film, minus the felt and leather pyjamas, Charlton Heston or NRA donated props.

Gliding Across Lake Indawgyi

After paying for lunch, we set off through the fields behind the village. An older man and teenager accompanied us and would take us back by boat to where we had left the bike that morning. The older man, donning a white hard hat, brought the long, narrow boat to where we were standing on the shore by pushing it through the dense reeds with one oar. With some coercion, the outboard engine spluttered into life and we headed for home across the dark, flat water. The hills around the lake were besieged by low clouds. The deep greens of the shore and low, scattered islands made for a an atmospheric and enchanting journey.

I reflected on the day and thought about Cho. He was sitting in front of me in the boat, scouring the water with his binocs. His seemingly inexhaustible enthusiasm for ornithology and this precious, natural environment was bewitching. This, in stark contrast to his reality where the local gold mines consumed most of his time and energy.

The Future of Indawgyi

Having a positive experience as a tourist anywhere in the world can often hinge on finding satisfactory accommodation. In Myanmar this is even more complicated as, in spite of an abundance of hotels and guesthouses, only some have a licence to host foreign visitors. The villagers around Indawgyi Lake are keen to establish guest houses and hotels for foreigners. But the government (at time of writing) has only allowed two in Lonton. Cho’s frustration at this predicament was clear. He and his colleagues at LOI envisage the potential for a diversified local economy an influx of tourists. And, more importantly, a lot more bird spotting.

My return journey to Hopin train station was in a mini bus this time. As we passed the workers on the road, I wondered what their endeavour would bring to the region? As much as I would like to see Cho’s community thrive and benefit from increased tourism – rather than rely on precious metals – I was, admittedly, glad to experience it as a remote and tranquil gem.